Sunday, July 27, 2014

You almost can't get there from here ...

100 miles, as the crow flies.

That is how far Utila is from Placencia, Belize. So one would think getting there should not be that big a problem. One would be wrong.

When I met my friends in Honduras in June for our trip to Utila, I posted about my ferry/taxi/plane/ferry/bus/taxi/ferry/bus ride from Placencia to Utila and back again.  I made the trip that way partly for the adventure and partly to save a little money. I didn't save that much  money, but whatever.

Here I am, less than a week away from moving to Utila permanently and again I have to figure out how to get there. Add in that two weeks after I arrive I'm  heading to the U.S. for a shark diving trip that leaves out of West Palm Beach, Florida.

This time, I am still hoping to not spend too much money, but more importantly is trying to avoid overnights in places like San Pedro Sula (apologies to Hondurans who love their city).

Let me add that I have to take into account that I'm schlepping everything I own, once again, to another country. I really wanted to pare 4 suitcases down to two but that just isn't happening. Now I'm trying to be happy with three bags.

This is how it feels ...

So let's consider the options ....

Flying: There are no direct flights to Utila, so I have to fly either to Roatan or San Pedro Sula. But there are no direct flights from Placencia either place, that means first flying to Belize City then taking a flight from there to one of the Honduran cities. Because I'm moving  to Utila each of these flights would be one way, adding to the cost.

The other thing that I have to consider is baggage. Remember, these planes are like 12 seaters. The baggage regulations will allow two checked bags, the third bag they won't promise you can take, depends on if they have room,and then you pay extra baggage fees. If the plane went to my final destination that might be okay, I could just have my extra bag arrive on a later flight. But since the flight goes somewhere else, that means I either stay and wait for it or have to make a return trip to wherever to pick up my bags.

So we are back at the ferry idea. I can take the D-Express Ferry from Placencia to Puerto Cortes, Honduras. It only runs that route on Friday mornings. Then I could take a taxi to San Pedro Sula to the International Airport and fly to Utila. But they only fly on Saturdays .... we're back at an overnight in San Pedro Sula.

Okay, I can take the ferry from Placencia to Puerto Cortes and take a bus to La Ceiba then the ferry from La Ceiba to Utila. But wait, the bus would not get me to La Ceiba in time for the late afternoon ferry so that means an overnight in La Ceiba.

Again, I could suck it up and do an overnight but one, it adds cost, and two, I am dragging three huge suitcases and my backpack around.

So maybe it isn't quite this bad but ....
Am I sounding grumpy?

So here is what I've decided, the D-Express Ferry on Friday the 1st to Puerto Cortes, a taxi from Puerto Cortes to La Ceiba (about a 3.5-4 hour drive), and the afternoon ferry from La Ceiba to Utila. The taxi ride will be pricey but no more so I don't think than an airplane ride and I skip the overnight.

I finally felt like I had it figured out, but then I started trying to make reservations for my trip to the U.S. I had originally planned on a "multi-city" trip, Utila  to San Pedro Sula to West Palm Beach to Nashville to San Pedro Sula to Utila. When I need to be in West Palm Beach and when I can get to San Pedro Sula .... that just doesn't work without a couple of overnights. I've split it into two distinct trips ... and I'm leaving out of Roatan. Cheaper out of San Pedro Sula but my time and sanity are worth something. So it will be Roatan to Nashville, round trip. And then a separate trip Nashville to West Palm Beach round trip.

I'm exhausted just thinking about it.

It seems that with my plans finalized everything should be perfect. But Murphy's Law is always there, and there has been a tiny wrench thrown in for fun. The deal for Greg's house fell through last week. I've been trying to secure another rental and I have some promising leads which I'll  have to finalize when I arrive in Utila. I have set up staying at Pirates Bay Inn again for the first week I am there. My birthday gift to myself, a week of diving ... Welcome to Utila. Hopefully Greg will be able to find the perfect house, either the original deal can be tweaked and revived or a more perfect house will come on the market. My fingers and toes are crossed that he finds the perfect retirement home in Utila. Please send positive vibes, good thoughts, prayers, whatever it is you do for Greg to find the house he really wants and wants me to rent! (The last part was me being greedy, really let's just hope for Greg to find exactly what he really wants so he can retire and live the good life in the Caribbean.)




Saturday, July 19, 2014

Ready for a change, the adventure continues ....

Two weeks from yesterday I will be on a ferry on my way to Utila, my new home. Some may ask why I'm already leaving Placencia. The easy answer would be that my friend Greg bought a house in Utila and I am fortunate enough to get to rent it while he slaves away at his job in the U.S. preparing for retirement. But in reality, there are several reasons.

With the upcoming move I have been reflecting, and planning. And so I've decided to give my nickels worth of advice about moving somewhere tropical. Remember, it is only a nickels worth and only my opinion.

First I would say, moving to the caribbean ... Best. Idea. Ever.

But here are my words of warning:

1. Think seriously about what you want out of your life. Do you want to live somewhere near an ocean where it is warm and they serve lots of fruity rum drinks? The Caribbean has all of that and more!

2. Do you want to continue to enjoy all the comforts of home, high speed internet, cable tv with a million channels, air conditioning the minute you walk inside, a hermetically sealed house? That is all available, for a price. don't expect  to live in the Caribbean or anywhere else on the cheap if you aren't willing to give up a few comforts of your American lifestyle.

3. Do you think that because you have money, U.S. dollars, that people should be thrilled you're  moving there and should jump at your command? Stay home. You only give other ex-pats a bad name. I only mention this one because I've seen it first hand.

4. Do you want to continue to work? Do some research about where you think you want to live and figure out if you legally can work, and what it takes to be able to, i.e., work permits, residency, opening a business, investing in  the country you're moving to?

5. Do you already speak another language? If you do you're already ahead (Spanish is a good one if you want to move somewhere Caribbean). If you don't already, think about learning it, show some respect for the language of the locals.  English is a great language despite how often we mangle it, but if the primary language is Spanish at least make an effort to speak and understand, and don't expect everyone where you move to be able to speak perfect english.

So now for some more optimistic advice.

Let it go. Nothing is really that urgent. Slow down. Unplug. Sit and just watch the ocean, watch for dolphins, or flying fish or pelicans feeding. Or just look at the absolute natural beauty of the ocean, the different colors, the gentle lapping of the waves on  the shore, the cool breeze. Recognize how amazing mother nature is, the incredible colors of the birds, the different types of animals right around you; fish, amphibians, reptiles, mammals. Realize how interconnected it all is. Every animal is important in the grand scheme and have their place and their job to do. No need to get baited into an argument about politics or religion. My favorite response these days? "There is a reason I'm laying in a hammock in Belize with no television or regular news service." Be grateful. Show compassion. Breathe.


So why you might ask would I want to leave this paradise and move again?

When I first moved I knew I wanted to live somewhere tropical The things I am most passionate about are more readily available here. I truly jumped and hoped for the net. I did a little bit of research, Belize was an easy choice, not too expensive, English speaking for the most part. I had a few momentary thoughts of moving to San Pedro on , Ambergris Caye. But I realized what attracted me to that place was the safety. The safety of being able to live much like I lived in the U.S. But the down side was it would cost me almost as much as living in the U.S. And what was the point of that. Also, truth be told, I had this romantic notion of traveling through the caribbean, learning about the culture, seeing countries I had only visited to dive.

My romanticism brought me to Placencia, a small village, with all the basic necessities but a slower pace, and still not completely "Americanized". And it has been lovely. The people here, both locals and ex-pats are wonderful. There is good food, both traditional  Belizean and a more international fare as well. You can, if you are willing to be a little adventurous and give up a few creature comforts, live fairly cheaply here. For me the real downside was that I didn't get to dive a  lot here. The reef, some of the most pristine of the Mesoamerican Reef System is 20+ miles off shore. That makes for long, expensive boat rides for the best diving.

And that romantic notion of exploring on my own? Well, yeah, not so much. I am only adventurous to a point. I didn't go anywhere much since I've lived here, I really didn't want to wander around alone. I would tell myself I would sign up for a tour but then the idea of spending a chunk of money to ride a bus or a boat and have no one to share it with just didn't appeal. So I really saw very little of the country. I never went on the chocolate factory tour, I didn't go see the crocodiles, manatees or monkeys of the Monkey River Tour. I didn't see any Jaguars. I know, bad tourist.

The most wildlife I saw was the insect variety inside my various homes. I seem to have gotten past the cockroach problem and have now moved on to a scorpion problem. Yes, that was me screaming like a little girl when I saw my first inside my house. And for all my desires to be kind to mother nature and the earth, you can't hand me the poison spray fast enough to get rid of  bugs in my house. Sorry.

Sorry for the terrible picture but really, I'm only willing to get so close, even when they are dead.
Now I'm ready for a change. Why not? So what do I expect to be different in Utila? For one, I can dive there relatively inexpensively. I can easily budget in likely two days of two tank dives every week. And that is assuming I don't work and/or don't have a chance to get some type of relationship with a dive operation there, maybe trade some teaching for some free diving. Who knows?

Opportunities. I am already excited about the opportunities I know of to volunteer for issues that are important to me. There is a Whale Shark and Oceanic Research Center on the Island, the Bay Islands Conservation Association, and Sea Shepherd. One or more of these may give me the opportunity to do some worthwhile work and maybe include diving in it too.

I really like the vibe there and I can't tell you exactly why. It seems that the backpacker lifestyle, people from all over the world living there for six months to a year appeals to me. Making friends from all over the world is just such a wonderful way to spend your time. And I have a hope that I will vastly improve my underwater photography skills as well as my above water photography. And it can be pretty inexpensive to live there.

Oh, and then there is that thing that one of my best friends now owns a house there, and that means that I likely will get to see my friends a little more often.

Next post: Getting from here to there ... harder than you'd think.


Friday, July 11, 2014

All Lobster ... All the Time

After our great week in Utila, I had convinced Greg to come to Placencia for a visit. And it worked perfectly to be in conjunction with the annual Placencia Lobsterfest.

It is basically a huge celebration of Lobster Season which opened June 15.  Many of the restaurants have a booth and cook their best lobster creations. There are ways people have found to use lobster that I never would have thought of. Here is a sample of some of the menus:

Lime lobster muffins? Who would have thought ...

Well I don't think they mean a story about lobster, but you get the idea ...


Some were better priced than others and a whole lobster could range in size ...
On Thursday night Greg and I visited a local restaurant, Omar's Creole Grub (this is the same Omar who I tried to buy a ferry ticket from a couple weeks earlier). He had a dinner that included a lobster tail. It was a bit pricey and the tail wasn't that big but it whet his appetite.

On Friday when we visited lobster fest after wandering to see what everyone offered and the price this is the place Greg chose:


So Greg go the type of Lobster meal he was looking for. And he got his picture on the Placencia Lobsterfest Facebook page.

Photo Credit: Marion Carr, Copyright Muzamanzie Photographs
In addition to all the food booths they had booths where local artisans sold their wears .... baskets and jewelry made by the mayan villagers of Punta Gorda, local jewelry makes and woodworkers. There are some of the most beautiful wood carvers in this village. They use hardwood species of Rosewood,, ericote Wood, Mahogany and driftwood.

This is Leo, who owns "Made in Belize". He has some of the most gorgeous carvings  both
large and small including a huge saiilfish carving that is incredible. Photo Credit: Marion & Ed Carr, Copyright Muzamanzie Photogoraphs.

More beautiful wood carings including these two little tables made with vertical dolphins holding up
the glass top.  I want. Photo Credit: Marion & Ed Carr, Copyright Muzamanzie Photographs

Photo Credit: Marion & Ed  Carr, Copyright Muzamanzie Photographs
The rest of Greg's visit was spent mostly visiting the regular hangouts, 2 Can B Sweet coffee shop and bakery for the amazing cinnamon rolls. Above Grounds coffee for their awesome coffee, juices, bagels and other baked goods,  Tipsy Tuna for beer and world cup soccer, Barefoot Bar for food and beer, Pickled Parrot for beer and Lionfish and Chips (Greg's favorite I think next to the Lobster).

Speaking of lionfish, on the Friday that the Lobsterfest started they had a lionfish tournament. The seas have been a little rough of late and three boats went out. I haven't yet gotten the exact numbers or had this confirmed but was told that the winning boat caught 356 lionfish, the second boat caught about 350. That is a lot of lionfish.


I think this is the catch off one of the boats. Photo Credit: Marion & Ed Carr, Copyright Muzamanzie Photographs
I will try and update the numbers for the lionfish tournament as well as some of the numbers and information for the fishing tournament that took place over the lobsterfest weekend.

So happy to have had Greg come for a visit. A bit unfair maybe that our thinking had turned already towards Utila and I didn't really take him on any of the available tours so he didn't get to see the Chocolate Factory or Monkey River ... maybe another time we'll come back and he can see those things.

My focus right now is culling my belongings once again and I would really really really like to get my four suitcases down to two for my move to Utila. And I'm working on different ideas of how I'll get there.